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Sailing San Blas
Sailing San Blas
Por Robert M. Barry, Ph.D.
My planning duties for our latest trip to Panama were a breeze compared to most of our paramotoring adventures.
We would be traveling, sleeping and eating on my sailboat, the Gloriamaris. And we would be flying with our Panamanian buddy Remy Swaab. He would meet us at the airport and handle all the permits and local transportation. All I had to do was get my gear there. My goal was to fly from what is locally known as the Costa Arriba to the San Blas Islands in the east. There are over 300 islands in this Caribbean archipelago stretching all the way to Columbia and ruled semi-autonomously by the Kuna Indians. Known for clear water, white sand and Kuna culture, they promised to be an interesting destination. Phil Russman, Mark MacWhirter and I met up with Remy in Panama City.
After spending the night in Remy’s ninth floor downtown flat, we prepared to head to the north coast. While Remy, our tour director, and Rodrigo, our ground crew, went to get a rental van, the rest of us worked on assembling our paramotors. But Mark was unable to get his motor to fit the frame and closer inspection revealed that the lower case of his Black Devil was cracked and bent from shipping mistreatment. We were tempted to just put it back in the box but we realized that there was a chance it could be repaired. So he and Remy spent much of the afternoon trying to resurrect his motor.
They eventually found a shop where they welded the case back together but Mark was concerned over how hot the seals got in the process. Nothing like a little uncertainty to spice up an already aggressive flight plan.
We finally made it to la Guaira on the Costa Arriba about 5 PM. It was too late to fly so we spent an hour scouting for a good launch site. Isla Grande protects this coastline so we found trees and other vegetation growing right down to the water. We didn’t find a single decent beach or futbol field. But that same protection also made it easy to hire a panga and ferry our luggage out to the Gloriamaris for the night. Our second morning brought less than ideal weather.
Two and sometimes three layers of clouds hid the sun and the wind was blowing a good 15 mph. The wind turned out to be the good news though. Phil and I were able to take advantage of it to launch out of a tiny spot between coconut palms with only a few steps to the water. Our next stop was only five miles away but we were not even sure we would be able to make it that far. We barely made any headway for the first mile and we could see isolated rain showers in the distance.
However, once we made it to the point the wind moderated and we turned south heading off the wind enough to make comfortable progress. With our destination only four miles away we told the others to meet us in Nombre de Dios. Meanwhile, Mark took the dingy back out to the Gloriamaris and after hoisting it up on deck they got under way. Remy and Rodrigo headed for Nombre de Dios in the van. Phil and I dodged one approaching rain cloud and then quickly found ourselves in sight of the town. It was a relief to see a big beach and a good anchorage. We landed right next to the police station at the west end of town where we made friends with the officers on duty and toured the jail.
They allowed us to put our motors under their patio when the next rainsquall hit. Rough seas and rough roads delayed the arrival of the rest of the team for a couple of hours. Rain showers came and went throughout the afternoon and evening but we made the most of it. I enjoyed kayaking the river while the others tinkered with their motors and walked around town. After changing his filter and cleaning out his carburetor, Phil made a test flight.
His motor quit pulling G’s in a tight turn but fortunately, he was within glide range of the beach. With no reason to explain the failure, he was now even more uncomfortable flying the unfamiliar borrowed motor. Motor problems, bad weather and worse news pretty much dominated the next three days. Remy learned that final negotiations with the Kuna Indians on our permit to fly in the San Blas Islands had broken down. My motor leaked enough grease into the clutch to force an unscheduled landing in Palenque. But that turned out to be a blessing because we were soon taking refuge from hard rain under the roof of a closed restaurant. We agonized about our next move and ultimately decided to sacrifice a day out of our schedule and sail all the way to Isla Nargana.
This was where we had planned to finish up our trip but it was also where the Kuna chief or Sahila lived. It turned out to be a good move. Soon after our arrival, Remy, the diplomat, secured permission for us to fly in the Coco Banderas and the Holledes islands. The local Kunas were all very interested in our paramotors and the Sahila requested that we inform him so he could watch us launch. After a day sailing, we were excited to get in the air again.
The next morning we were greeted by school children and the officials of Nargana, who seemed to be just as excited about watching us. We flew around Nargana first and then we tentatively broadened out our circles to include some of the nearby islands. In spite of the overcast sky, the reefs and islands were spectacular. We made a pass down the runway, skimmed the surf line on the reef, dodged the treetops on the coral islands, and just generally had a great time. Remy and I were the first to venture out to one of the offshore islands.
The colors were even more spectacular and the experience was exhilarating. Our radio banter soon brought Phil and Mark out as well. We explored Farewell Island and the Cocos Island group before returning to Nargana. After lunch we elected to fly east a few miles to Isla Tigre, the next inhabited island. Our launches went well in the 10 mph ocean breeze.
The grassy schoolyard made the perfect launch site, although we needed to be careful not to get blown into the power lines behind the field. There was also a tall communications tower next to the Police station that made for a prominent obstacle. Unfortunately Mark immediately started experiencing motor problems and he returned to Nargana. We had sent a local Kuna ahead of us to get permission to land on Isla Tigre. So by the time we arrived all the residents knew we were coming. Many were sitting on the bleachers next to the futbol field. We were surrounded by kids soon after landing. The Sahila formally greeted us and then offered to take us on a tour of his domain.
The kids followed us everywhere. The Sahila told me that the population of Tigre was about 1,000 and I joked that 900 of them must be kids. He informed us that many extra elementary school kids from other islands stayed there during the week to attend school. The Sahila took us to the village congress house where we met three other Sahilas from nearby islands. We were unclear exactly who was in charge of what so Remy convinced them all to approve our flying plans just in case somehow they would overrule the approval we had from the Sahila in Nargana.
The charge for this came to $50, which was immediately handed over to the schoolmaster for the coming weekend festivities (which we were also invited to). The weather the next morning was more of the same low threatening clouds. So we hung around the boat and made a trip up the Rio Diablo. I found a palm frond to make hats from. We shot lots of photos of the Kuna river traffic. Women were washing clothes, men collecting coconuts.
Mark determined that his paramotor exhaust was unable to be repaired here in the islands. So he went into full non-flying mode still determined to enjoy himself in spite of his disappointment. His cameras made for a good outlet. We loaded Mark’s paramotor back onto the boat and ate an early lunch before the weather finally improved enough to think about flying. The Coco Banderas were only 5.5 miles away but it would require one two-mile water crossing. Phil and I wore PFD’s and Remy had an Agama on his paramotor but it was still daunting.
Phil climbed up to 2500 feet before he started across. Remy and I made the dash at closer to 1000 feet. Phil joked that he saw a 747 pass under him. Our excitement turned to concern when we realized that our planned landing spot was in rotor behind tall coconut palms. We would either have to fly back to Nargana or find an alternate spot. Mark and the Gloriamaris were already nearing the anchorage when we located a narrow beach that paralleled the wind. It would not be in view of the boat but it would have to do. I landed first and had no trouble dropping my wing on the low vegetation behind the beach. We hid our gear under the coconut palms as we reveled in our completed flight.
Late in the afternoon, the wind came around 75 degrees and we realized we could land within sight of the boat at our preferred spot. Remy and I launched first and while we were flying around waiting on Phil, Remy’s spark plug cap came loose and he made a quick forced landing on the next island to the north. He was only 50’ high and over water when his engine quit but he was able to make a quick 180 degree turn and line up for a downwind approach to a very narrow beach. He dodged a few logs and buried the brakes as he plowed into the soft sand. His gear was fine but he sprained his ankle slightly.
After a local flight to the western Banderas, Phil and I landed on the island closest to the boat. A Kuna living there in a palm hut was pleased to get a couple Balboas to watch our gear. We only had two full flying days left and I was losing hope that we would ever get sun for some good photography.
The next morning, we prepared our gear and then waited on the boat for a break in the weather but we soon had to rush ashore to cover things up again as a thunderstorm brought hard rain. Our Kuna caretaker was amused to share his thatched hut with us. It soon became apparent that the storm would not pass quickly and we made our way back to the boat thoroughly drenched. I made a coconut frond hat while we waited.
Then after an early lunch the clouds lifted and the sun made its first full appearance since our arrival. We could even see the mountains on the mainland. I couldn’t get in the air soon enough! But now behind the storm, there was only weak shifting wind. I filled my four-gallon tank completely and attempted the launch first. After a couple of resets and a very short run-out I was in the air. I then watched as Remy went into the water on his attempt. Fortunately his Agama deployed immediately and he floated comfortably on his back as Mark swam out to help. What could have been a disaster was just a minor inconvenience. Now it was Phil’s turn. He aborted two launches gone bad and finally made a forward on sheer willpower. Now there were only two of us and I had already burned a third of my fuel.
The sun made an incredible difference in the colors below. The tough launch and the amazing scenery almost made us forget the four-mile water crossing we were about to make. With the Gloriamaris following, Phil and I first made our way to the western Coco Banderas where we could see at least one good bailout. Then we climbed up to 2500 feet before we made our way across the channel to the Hollendes Islands. We had no good landing information for the Hollendes but Captain Tom had given us a couple of ideas from his previous visits. We took turns photographing each other from our high vantage points and then we seriously surveyed the islands for a landing spot. There were plenty of bailouts but no great options for a surefire re-launch.
I was now running low on fuel so I focused on a small sandy island with no trees on it. It was downwind from a large mangrove flat that was generating thermals and it was only about 50 feet wide and 100 feet long. I made two passes before attempting to land. The thermals were mellow but the surface winds were either completely blocked or shifting wildly. Too late to go elsewhere, but I landed with no problem. Phil circled overhead and directed the Gloriamaris to our location.
Only after Mark was in place with his camera did Phil finally join me on terra firma. The Gloriamaris was a welcomed refuge after our stressful flight. But the light wind brought the sand flies out. None of us wanted to endure a night of bug bites so we moved the boat to an anchorage out on the reef and away from the buggy mangroves.
Unfortunately, this put us out of direct view of our paramotors. It was a trade we were willing to make. I wakeboarded over to check on them in the evening and we figured they would be safe after dark. Saturday was still sunny and Phil and I were anxious to fly but the air was dead still and neither of us was excited about trying a no-wind forward launch from our little spit of sand. We moved the boat back over to the tiny island so we would be ready if conditions changed.
In the meantime, we laid out Remy’s wing to dry, snorkeled the reef, wake-boarded and swam until we were afraid that we would not have enough time to get back to Isla Tigre in time for the celebrations. After lunch we decided to just get ready and hope for a window to take off. The thermals from the big island to our north finally started cycling through bringing a bit of wind with them. We cleaned up the island and stacked the driftwood and coconuts in one big pile. We set up a wind indicator and Phil attempted to kite his wing. It did not look good.
I was ready to give up when a pretty good breeze cycled through. Phil quickly set up. I watched. Fortunately, the wind seemed to be favoring the length of the island. Phil waited for another cycle and then gave it all he had.
The wing came up straight and he powered up one side of the sand spit and then down the other barely gaining speed as he went but just when his next step would have put him in the water he lifted off. Now it was my turn. I pulled up my wing once only to have the wind shift 30 degrees. I reset a little more across the short width of the island. I waited for Remy to indicate that another wind cycle was passing and then I went for it as well. I was off the ground before I reached the top of the dune. The sun was now competing with passing clouds and we made the best of both. When the sun was out we took photos of the beautiful reefs and islands below.
When the clouds blew by we played around their edges dipping our wing tips into the soup. The dramatic appearance of the reefs below when I broke out on the other side of a cloud was breathtaking. We made our way back to Coco Banderas first and then we headed for the coast. The clouds got bigger as we approached the mainland but it was still broken enough for the sun to blast through on occasion.
We were greeted again on Isla Tigre with great enthusiasm but far fewer kids. While we waited for the Gloriamaris, we gave kiting lessons to one of the more interested Kunas. It made great entertainment for all. Soon Remy and Mark joined us and we gave short tow rides to some of the kids. In the process I discovered two large tears on the lower surface of my wing. I taped up my red wing with white ripstop. It did not look great but it was flyable.
The crowd didn’t disperse until we finally stowed our gear in one of the homes by the water’s edge. After a swim, we returned to watch the evening festivities. The men played bamboo flutes and the women danced. There were fireworks and speeches that threatened to go on late into the night. We snuck back to the boat after dark for the last of Captain Tom and Lilianna’s fantastic dinners. Very little on this trip went as planned but we still managed to fly, photograph and sail the spectacular San Blas Islands. After seven days, only one of five paramotors was still running and even it died if you made a sharp turn.
We managed five engine-outs and a water landing without any severe consequences. Unfortunately, our charter plane did arrive as planned the next day. We flew back to Panama City, sad to leave the Gloriamaris and the San Blas Islands but already planning our next paramotor adventure to Panama’s Darien Jungle.